Saturday 29 April 2017

BYOC Crown Jewel

Here is a layout for the BYOC Crown Jewel (minus the boost).
The boost is an independent circuit of your choice in serie with the main circuit.
There is also an extra switch to select if you want the boost "Pre" or "Post" the main  circuit.
You can find all infos and schematic on their website here.


22 comments:

  1. Now if we could modify it to have a few more pots and switches, then it might be a versatile little circuit.

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  2. My god man!! It's a monster. I have an inclination to build this as I have built all the pedals in the demo except the time. What's that thing anyway? I will post back if I get going on it.

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    1. I saw no Time pedal. I did see the Timmy and Zendrive which may look like a clock ,Just saw this one. It looks Fantastic I am gonna give it a go tonight should take about 3 or 4 hours to make. Thanks Alex once agin making impossible into strip board reality!

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    2. Did you build it? Did it work? Impossible for me would be to create the circuit. BYOC's people did the whole job. Layouts are more like a weird puzzle. Thank you for bringing this pedal to my/our attention! I think it sounds great!

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    3. I started it last night spent three hours on it . I just have to hook up the switches .I only had 2 on off on spdt . i grabbed a few at lunch today Ill finish it tonight . . I am really close and have the 3rd switch now . It looked fine when i was checking it . Very nice layout !

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    4. Ya this pedal Kieth designed is very cool . I wonder how close it sounds in other settings with all 10 pedals. I cant wait to test it against my Zendrive and Timmy . of the 40 gain pedals i have done those are 2 of my favorites along with the Jekyll and Hyde and the crunch box.

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  4. Well the family is going out of town for a week, I think I have found something to keep me busy.

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  5. Could a 7660 be used for the charge pump?

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  6. I saw that the build doc from BYOC says to use the 7660.

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    1. The 1054 is less noisy (but more expensive). If you use a 7660s (must have the "S") you need to remove the cut between lugs 1 & 8.

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    2. Watch out!! If you use a 7660S pin 1 and 8 should be CONNECTED. When using a 1054 then they should NOT BE CONNECTED. Oeps, a bit of shouting there :).. bad parenting...

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    3. Lol no prob. I found some 1054s on ebay for a good price, I will go ahead and get them, then source everything else from Tayda. Thanks for the help.

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  8. Its working. I missed a cap derp..... ALL the switches work all the pots work well except for the treble and bass pot. If i put the treble past 2 oclock i get squeal . I may need to do some shielding.The bass pot seems kind of ineffective and the overall bass seems lacking. I will retest tomorrow through my big amps I may of had the Mid switch and mid Q and mid set to were thats par for the course .

    I need to box it just so i can read labels for all the controls . I might ad a couple more switches for assymetrical clipping in the soft settings. . Ill tell you what its got so much going on just like from the video you can dial in tons of known pedal sounds. You can also dial in some seriously horrible sounding tones as well ha ha .

    I got exactly 4 hours in it to this point counting my trouble shooting . This will take another few hours to do artwork drill decal and box, I am trying to think of another name for it . Any suggestions? Leaning towards The Chameleon ha ha Thanks Alex I requested this and once I saw you did it I wanted to verify it asap. Ill probably wait a week or two to box it now that its verified I got some stuff pump out people are waiting for.

    Alex... I did your tight metal layout that is a killer pedal. Whats up with the gate for that can you seperate whats going on with that for us? I could use that with several other hi gain pedals its not a bad noise gate at all. I set it almost completely open it doesnt intrude to much on the highs and still cuts a ton of noise . Its just a couple of diodes and a cap???? Thanks again great layout .

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  9. The Mid q pot is super dynamic. You can add the Systech Harmonic Energizer to the list of pedals this thing can do.

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    1. Thanks for verifying it! Not sure if you could easily use the Tight Metal's "Gate" here. May get better answers in the Forum.

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  10. Finished this up yesterday and it rocks! Also get squeal with presence and treble up. Having both dimed (set at max) gets into icepick (painful treble) territory anyway. Thanks so much for the layout!

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  11. Hello I've started building this great pedal, but what confuses me is the wiring of pre/post boost switch.Can somebody please explained to me?Thanks!

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  12. I was really curious about this the firts time I see it. Now I found this layout labelled Verified, but there's some trouble with it, isn't it? Lack of bass, squeal... Ho many of you, guys, had built this pedals?

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  13. Older comments/questions, but FWIW the Presence control is performing two functions. It cuts bass frequencies at the input of the gain stage and It also determines the maximum level of gain available from the Drive control.

    With the Presence at full CCW, frequencies below 65Hz are rolled off and the maximum available gain from the Drive control is 45x.

    At full CW, frequencies below 723Hz are rolled off and the maximum Drive gain is now 500x!

    So it would seem the more CW the Presence control, the less CW needed for the Drive control, otherwise ice picky squeals galore.

    To limit the maximum gain to say 225x, replace the Presence control's 220n capacitor with 100n, the 1k resistor with 2k2, and use a 20k pot for the Presence control. This maintains the frequency rolloff range while reducing the available gain.

    To get more low end gain, either use one of the clean boosts in front with the Presence CCW, or try increasing the 220n cap to 470n. The latter will lower the frequency rolloff range to 30Hz to 338Hz and allow about 100x gain at the 65Hz rolloff, and 200x gain at the 135Hz rolloff. Of course this may cause some unwanted muddy or flubby gain. Could try a 330n too.

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